A First-Time Bird Watcher from the City Explores the Outer Banks

By Jen Ruiz on
Aug. 01, 2022

As someone raised in a major city, my everyday bird sightings were mostly limited to pigeons. Those were not exactly the kind of birds that inspired lingering observation, except maybe to keep an eye on whether they were about to grab your food. And honestly, some looked tough enough that surrendering the snack felt like the safer option.

I already expected the Outer Banks to be full of remarkable marine life because of its beautiful position along the water. What surprised me was how much the trip would teach me about birds, especially migratory ones. I got my first hint during the drive in, while traveling down a quiet, one-lane road. Suddenly, a flash of red cut across in front of me. It was far too small to be The Flash, so I decided it had to be a cardinal. Throughout the visit, the sky kept offering up little moments like that — unexpected sightings and sounds from winged neighbors. I heard all kinds of chirps, many new to me, each with its own pitch and rhythm. Dorothy, we were far from city life.

Discovering the Area with Native Birding Tours

My real appreciation for the destination began during a morning outing with Native Birding Tours. Our guide, Jonathan Cooley, brought a master’s degree in biology along with years of hands-on wildlife preservation experience. We met at the Bodie Island Lighthouse for the start of a four-hour birding tour.

As we walked along the boardwalk, Jonathan explained why this region is such an exceptional place for bird watching. I learned that North Carolina sits along the migratory path between Canada and South America, which means the local bird population includes both year-round residents and many species passing through.

The region is one of the best places for spotting rare species. Jonathan smoothly named dozens of birds he had seen, while I did my best just to keep up with the terminology. I felt proud of myself for recognizing a cardinal by its bright red color, but the idea of telling birds apart by feather markings, flight behavior, and feeding patterns felt almost impossible. For Jonathan, that kind of identification seemed effortless. He was like a living field guide, and once our introduction was complete, he led us toward the heart of the experience: Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge.

Bird Watching at Pea Island

We pulled up near the sandy edge, making sure not to drive in too deeply and risk getting stuck. I wondered whether I should switch into the sand socks I had bought for hang gliding, but Jonathan assured us we would not be walking far. I climbed the aged cedar steps, excited to see what waited on the other side of the dunes.

At first, the view did not quite match my expectations. There were no dramatic waves rolling in, only still patches of water that looked more like marshland. Instead of bright blooms, the scenery was dominated by tall grass. Then a large bug landed on me, and I responded with pure instinct — frantic swatting, oversized movements, and obvious panic. It would not be the last bug to get close that morning.

Jonathan cautioned us about biting flies, which did not help the setting make an especially charming first impression. I tried to stay cheerful, looking around and offering polite appreciation. But it was only when I looked through Jonathan’s scope that the place truly came alive.

Past what had seemed like a flat and empty landscape, an entire hidden world appeared. A deer was resting among the trees. Numerous kinds of birds gathered together in flocks, some feeding and others preening. There was even a tundra swan that had delayed her trip north, apparently taking her time enjoying the Outer Banks mood.

One bird flew just above the water, holding its beak open to skim for fish. Others had long, two-toned bills made for pulling worms from the damp ground. We studied colors and identifying details, and I began to notice how much variety existed in a place I had first dismissed as plain. This was not the loud soundtrack of car horns and city noise I knew so well. It was nature’s constant, steady buzz — something I had apparently been missing without realizing it.

Wildlife at Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge

Once we had spotted everything there — Pokemon style! — we continued to Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge to see what else might make it onto our list. Almost right away, we came across not one but two barred owls. They were on the ground, processing a recent meal. One appeared younger; both seemed wise.

We also saw an alligator and a group of turtles marked with vivid yellow stripes. Along the trails, Jonathan showed us bear paw prints on a trash can. Until that moment, I had wondered why trash in the Outer Banks was kept so securely locked up. The answer, as it turned out, was to keep bears from serving themselves.

As we left the refuge, I found myself scanning the trees and sky, afraid I might overlook something remarkable. What had once looked to me like open, undeveloped space had become a busy world full of animals, each moving through its own daily agenda. I could hardly believe it had all been there the entire time. All I needed was a well placed scope to finally notice it.

Categories and Tags

Category: Outdoor Enthusiast

Tags: Manteo, Pea Island, Hatteras

About the Author

Jen Ruiz is the author of Jen on a Jet Plane, a solo female travel blog focused on exciting destinations, budget travel tips, and inspiration for your next adventure. @JenOnAJetPlane https://jenonajetplane.com/