An Outer Banks of North Carolina Kiteboarding Getaway

By Michael Law
Feb. 15, 2024

When Kenny, a friend of mine, asked me and 15 other friends to spend the last week of September kiteboarding in the Outer Banks, I was interested right away. I had visited the area earlier in my kiting years, and other wind-sport fans had told me plenty about the famed conditions on Pamlico Sound.

My interest grew when he listed a few of the places we could ride: Planet of the Apes, Buxton Flats, Real Slicks, Canadian Hole, Wash Out, and more. The invitation was impossible to turn down.

Riding hard across the water at Salvo Day Use

The Outer Banks, known as OBX by regulars, are a chain of sandy islands off the coast of North Carolina, linked by Highway 12. Duck marks the northern end of the OBX, while Hatteras sits at the lower end. Highway 12 seems to run forever along the coast, with occasional scenic lighthouses, impressive bridges, and broad stretches of marshland along the way.

I arrived at Raleigh Durham Airport (RDU), and 3.5 hours after landing, I was traveling east across dramatic bridges. Since I knew I would need plenty of fuel, I stopped in Key West-like Manteo and headed straight to Poor Richard’s for a filling Rockfish Wrap on the scenic back patio.

Rockfish Wrap at Poor Richard’s in Manteo

Well fed, I continued to Salvo and found the address I’d been given. To my surprise, it was a luxurious four-story 12-bedroom house with a pool, hot tub, and wrap-around decks. It was an excellent base for the trip.

Kiteboarding in the Outer Banks has become more popular with time, and now it is difficult to miss the bright mix of kites racing over the water. The main season for kiting is mid-April to early May and September to mid- October. In the Outer Banks, those periods fall in the shoulder seasons, which means accommodations cost less, restaurants have fewer lineups, and the atmosphere is more relaxed.

The author getting ready for a day on the water at the Wash Out

Following an evening by the pool with a home-grown musical tribute to the recently departed Jimmy Buffet, the group settled on Salvo Day Use area for the next day’s session. This free, easy-to-reach launch has a good beach and stays shallow far out into the sound. It was ideal for a first outing, and I was happy to shake off the rust after not kiting since February.

That evening, during a group lasagna dinner, we heard that Wednesday’s wind forecast looked outstanding, with speeds up near 30 knots (34 mph). The following morning, everyone made their way to The Wash Out. Kiteboarders were launching in every direction and reaching amazing heights, with some going over 40 feet in the air. A few landed cleanly, while many ended in spectacular crashes. The wind kept blowing hard on Thursday at The Washout, and the show continued. Luckily, sore muscles and stories from the water were both helped along by beers and fried shrimp at the ever-authentic Pop’s Raw Bar.

Smooth, flat-water riding at Salvo Day Use

Even after all that riding, I still had not visited two of the best-known locations: Real Slicks and Planet of the Apes. After a meal of chili dogs and brownies, the group chose a downwind ride that would include both. With NW winds in place, we launched from Kitty Hawk Kites, where some members of the group bought replacement gear after a kite explosion, and headed south in search of butter-flat water. Real Slicks delivered. Small grass islands block the waves but leave the wind untouched, letting you fly across glassy water at high speed.

After stopping for lunch in Salvo, it was time for the biggest outing of the day: Planet of the Apes. Found south of Salvo, this expansive grassland feels similar to the Everglades, with tall marsh grasses cut through by channels of water. For kiteboarders, it is paradise. The waterways pull you deeper into the maze, and some riders do not find their way out easily, at least not without a long marsh walk or help from a search team. Out there, the setting is stripped down to the wind, the birds, and you. No boats, no houses, no distractions from nature. We spent the afternoon weaving through the channels, with only a few kites ending up in the grass. The session was thrilling and tiring, and I was relieved to come off the water at mile marker 48 and see Kenny waiting with a smile.

That night, we marked the trip with a large group dinner of ribs, fish, and burgers at Waterman’s Grill & Bar, located at Real Watersports. Photos were reviewed, jump heights were shared, and crashes were retold in full detail. By the next morning, the wind was still up, but it was time to return to Raleigh and continue on to Toronto.

An Outer Banks kiteboarding vacation is not only about time on the board. The wind does not blow every day on the OBX, and those quieter stretches gave our group time for other activities. People went stand-up paddleboarding, kayaking, biking, shelling, and, naturally, relaxing on the beach in the warm North Carolina sun. Some chose to shop for gifts at the Thursday market in Hatteras, then enjoy a long, unhurried lunch at Lucky 12 Tavern.

Author

Michael Law is a self-confirmed wanderer who still travels often and has visited over 50 countries. His trips are frequently shaped around the activities he loves most, including skiing, kiteboarding, hiking, camping, fishing, and other outdoor pursuits. Outside Canada, some of the places he returns to most often include the Dominican Republic, Colorado, Arizona, and North Carolina.

His recent travels have included kiteboarding in Brazil, the Dominican Republic, and North Carolina's Outer Banks; taking road trips through Spain and the Canary Islands; discovering New Zealand’s South Island; looking for the best beaches in the Philippines; and camping and hiking in Ontario, Canada.

Michael belongs to SATW (Society of American Travel Writers), NASJA (North America Snowsports Journalists Association), and TMAC (Travel Media Association of Canada). His primary outlets are Planetware.com, Outside Interactive, Northern Ontario Travel Magazine, and Value Partners Incorporated.

An Outer Banks of North Carolina Kiteboarding Getaway

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