How a Second OBX Visit Won Over This New Yorker Even More Than the First

By Jane Anderson on Sep. 20, 2021

For most of my adult years, people around me have praised the Outer Banks. Friends, relatives, and acquaintances had raved about the beaches, lighthouses, and outdoor adventures. A few years ago, I finally traveled south from my upstate New York home and found that the destination lived up to what I had been told. But when I returned in August 2021, that second visit is what made me fall in love.

Getting there is simple: fly into Norfolk, Virginia, then enjoy a scenic two-hour drive into the center of OBX. On the way, stop at Trio Restaurant & Market for supplies, lunch, and a glass of wine. If fortune smiles the way it did on my first trip, a kind staff member from up North might offer local tips. Sharon shared plenty of them, including how to pronounce Corolla and Bodie Island correctly.

This time, I already knew to seek out the Wild Pony White by Sanctuary Vineyards, a Chardonnay-focused wine that tastes wonderful and also supports the Corolla Wild Horse Fund. Sharon had suggested it during my earlier visit. Wild Pony can also be found at the four Cotton Gin bottle shops around OBX and at the Sanctuary Vineyard itself. The winery is worth the half-hour trip inland, whether as its own outing or as a stop on the drive down, and it makes an easy place to pause over a sip or two.

In 2019, the house I rented sat right on the beach, which felt like paradise to this New Yorker. Near home, in places such as the Jersey Shore or Long Island, finding a safe, quiet, comfortable beachfront place that is affordable is nearly impossible. Down here, it can be done. For this trip, though, we stayed in a newly built house only a three-block walk from public beach access. Because of my earlier experience, we booked through Kees Outer Banks Vacation Rentals. The property management team sent the door code before check-in, and we knew to expect complimentary hand soap, shampoo, and shower gel, plus starter supplies such as coffee, paper goods, and dish soap. The kitchen was stocked with ample dishes and cookware, which we happily put to use all week.

So Many Things to Do

The beautiful, uncrowded beaches were exactly the kind of relief this New Yorker appreciates. Because there were no beach-access fees, we could head in and out as we liked without keeping track of a badge or carrying a wallet.

To get from our house to the beach access, we crossed South Virginia Dare Trail, and it was simple. Almost every driver paused at the crosswalk and waved us across, which is not something to count on in Manhattan. Along with adding an easy walk to our daily steps, we found a little free library on the route, a lovely surprise for someone who loves to read. During the stay, I believe I borrowed and returned three books, and I left one from home behind for someone else.

With a full week ahead of us, we had time to enjoy a wide range of OBX experiences. Our first outing was kite flying at Jockey’s Ridge State Park. Our son picked out an impressive kite at Kitty Hawk Kites, and then we crossed the street into the park. From my previous trip, I knew we could leave our shoes at the entrance, dig our toes into the sand, and trust that the shoes would be waiting when we came back. A tip: go to Jockey’s Ridge at sunset and bring a camera. A kite high in the air with the sunset behind it creates both a memorable image and a lasting memory.

While on the subject of Kitty Hawk, the Wright Brothers National Memorial was a favorite for all of us. Go early if you want to miss the heaviest crowds, and choose comfortable walking shoes. You will want to take in the whole site, from the museum to the tall memorial to the place where Wilbur and Orville first got their invention into the air.

Everyday Ease Away From Home

Even though OBX is unquestionably a vacation spot, it never felt like a tourist trap to us, unlike some beaches farther north. Whatever we needed, whether a grocery store, drugstore, or bank, was only a quick drive away. The friendliness of the people also stood out; we felt more like familiar visitors than outsiders.

Because we live in the Hudson Valley, summer farmer’s market produce is something we know well. So when we visited Duck, where you should get the donuts, we were pleased to find corn, tomatoes, and more local abundance at the Tomato Shack produce stand.

Lighthouses, Wild Horses, and More

At home in the woods of New York, there is no real way to feed my affection for lighthouses. On the OBX, we had five chances to visit one. Bodie Island Lighthouse remains a favorite of mine because of its natural-feeling setting, the long boardwalk where we could stretch our legs, and hourly ranger talks that explained the lighthouse’s past. Cape Hatteras Lighthouse is also essential, and so is Ocracoke Light, both down toward the southern end of OBX.

For those of us from the Hudson Valley, lighthouses often sit directly within the keepers’ homes. Roanoke Marshes Light offers something with a similar feel.

As we traveled north to see the wild horses, another sight we would never encounter near home, we happened upon Currituck Beach Light, which stands out because of its red-brick construction.

And about those horses: I strongly recommend booking a wild horse tour. You can watch these magnificent animals moving freely through their world, and you also get the excitement of riding along the shoreline in a tour trailer. If your experience is like ours, a seasoned beach-dude guide may also share details about sea turtles, a WWII lookout on the beach, and other memorable bits of local knowledge.

Already Thinking About a Third Visit, and a Fourth

We experienced so much on OBX that it cannot all fit here. We kayaked through a marsh, browsed lovely shops in Manteo, took in the history of Fort Raleigh, enjoyed a delicious lunch at the Caffey’s Inlet Life Saving Station at the Sanderling Resort, and still found time to relax on the sand and swim beyond the breakers.

One thing is certain: we are coming back.

Author

Jane Anderson is a writer and editor from the woods of Sullivan County, New York. She enjoys time with family and friends, travel, photography, gardening, hiking, and, naturally, the Outer Banks beaches.