Visit The Outer Banks

A 101 Guide to OBX Oysters

Dan Lewis from Coastal Provisions shares the basics on oysters in the Outer Banks of NC, including species, local growing conditions, and places to understand why the region has become a draw for oyster fans.

By Dan Lewis
Aug. 29, 2023

Oysters carry a deep history and a bit of myth, and they may be the most sustainable and environmentally friendly protein source on the planet. After spending most of his life as a chef and enjoying plenty of these salty bivalves along the way, Dan Lewis connected with Rowan Jacobsen, the authority on oysters and the award-winning author of The Geography of Oysters. Drawing from that work, here is a compact Oyster 101.

There are five species of edible oysters: the Olympia, Pacific, Kumamoto, Belon, and, for many people from the East Coast, the most familiar one: Crassostrea Virginica, also known as the Eastern Oyster. The first four each bring their own clear differences in size, form, texture, and flavor. The Eastern Oyster, however, changes more dramatically with its setting. Because an oyster feeds by filtering up to fifty gallons of water each day, its taste comes from the water moving through it. Salinity and the algae it consumes shape the main flavor profile.

Wild and Farmed Oysters

Because oysters take on the character of the water where they feed and filter, their flavor is not determined by whether they are wild or farmed, unlike salmon. There are still some meaningful distinctions. Most farmed oysters are triploids, while wild oysters are diploids. Triploids do not spawn, similar to breeding seedless watermelon, with no GMO stuff here. When an oyster spawns, it can lose up to 40% of its body mass, which can leave the meat soft and flabby. That makes farmed triploids more dependable in meat quality.

Farmed oysters also receive more hands-on attention as they grow. They are often tumbled to build stronger shells and deeper cups, then sorted to keep size and shape more consistent.

The R Month Rule

Most oyster lovers have heard the old guidance about eating oysters only during months with the letter R. That idea made sense in ancient Roman times, when it helped toga-wearing fans avoid getting sick after oysters were hauled inland from the Italian coast during Summer heat. A few dozen centuries later, another R word changed the picture: refrigeration.

Today, oysters can be eaten year round when handled properly. After harvest, they must stay refrigerated to keep bacteria from growing, much like milk and other proteins. They can also remain alive out of the water for a couple weeks.

Oysters on the OBX

The oyster business is growing quickly, with new oyster bars showing up not only in coastal communities but also in cities throughout the country. Oyster aquaculture is helping meet that demand. Virginia has led much of the work through research and the number of farms on both sides of the Chesapeake and along the coast, while North Carolina is now waking up to its own opportunity.

For much of its history, North Carolina’s waters were more closely guarded by North Carolinians. Until fairly recently, oysters were a local specialty mostly enjoyed during a short Winter season. Wild harvest runs November-March, and North Carolina oysters were rarely found outside the region.

That shifted when the first local oyster farm arrived: Bodie Island Oysters, part of the Wanchese Fish Company. Since then, more locally farmed oysters have come from Cape Hatteras Oyster Company and Ocracoke, along with a dozen or more from farther south in the Pamlico Sound. From the perspective of someone who sees a couple dozen East Coast varieties every week, NC oysters are some of the best available. Local farmers are learning quickly and putting real time and care into raising strong oysters. The fertile waters help them grow fast, making North Carolina’s Outer Banks an excellent destination for people who love oysters.

Author

Dan Lewis
Chef/Owner at Coastal Provision's Oyster and Wine Bar Cafe

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