Check Off Your Winter Birding List

By Julie Suman on Jan. 12, 2022

As sunrise lifted above the dunes beside Route 12, it felt like Cape Hatteras National Seashore was setting the stage for a Big Day. Migrating waterfowl and songbirds brought us to the natural beauty of this barrier island, where salt marshes, dunes, and maritime forests create winter habitat for hundreds of bird species. With binoculars in hand, we began at Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge.

Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge

A key purpose of Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge is to support migratory birds with nesting, resting, and wintering habitat. Across the 13-mile stretch between the Atlantic Ocean and Pamlico Sound, the refuge includes wildlife trails, three brackish ponds, observation decks, and photo blinds. The North Pond Wildlife Trail is also wheelchair accessible.

At the Visitor Center, we met Jonathan Cooley from Native Birding Tours and mapped out the day. From there we drove south, where the 25,700 acres of water seemed to leap into view from the car. Diving ducks and Tundra Swans can be seen easily from the roadside. Our first stop was a pull-off that turned out to be a standout.

Even with strong winds roaring around us, morning light revealed dozens of species. Jonathan's truck helped block the gusts as we watched snow geese feeding along the shore. Northern Pintail, Gadwall, Blue Wing Teal, and Redheads clustered in the shallow wetlands. Farther off, Tundra Swans and White Pelicans called out. Sand blew across the road from the dunes, giving the scene an almost unreal feel. Visitor tip: bring layers, as the Outer Banks is the sixth windiest place in the U.S.

Salt Flats

A bit farther north on the island, the salt marshes and shallow wetlands make excellent habitat for wading birds. Near the Salt Flats Wildlife Trail, we saw White Ibis, recognizable by their long, curved orange beaks. Snowy Egrets and Great Egrets shared the shoreline nearby. Rusty Blackbirds moved through the marsh grasses, while American Avocets drifted close by.

Vagrants Expected

We then returned to the Visitor Center to walk the North Pond Wildlife Trail. Along the way, a Peregrine Falcon watched for prey from trees bordering the pond. Eventually, we climbed the observation tower and took in the sweep of this wild landscape.

Inside the Visitor Center are educational wildlife exhibits, along with maps and brochures. Mary, a four-year volunteer, enthusiastically described the birds visible through the center’s scopes. Right on cue, an unexpected Eurasian Widgeon, typically found on the West Coast in winter, passed by with a reddish head and pale pink breast.

Bonner Bridge Pier

The 1,046 foot Bonner Bridge Pier extends into Oregon Inlet at the northern end of Pea Island. Set at the end of Basnight Bridge, the pier is a strong place for fishing, marine-life viewing, and bird watching. Thousands of cormorants moved on and off the Basnight Bridge pylons, while Brown Pelicans cut through the waves. Jonathan mentioned that ducks also tend to gather on the small beach nearby.

It is also worth crossing the dunes to visit the Oregon Inlet Life-Saving Station on the National Register of Historic Places. First constructed in 1898, the station remained in operation until 1988. Paths through the dunes lead toward the Atlantic Ocean and offer chances to spot shorebirds.

Bodie Island Lighthouse

The well-known black-and-white striped Bodie Island Lighthouse is one of four lighthouses on the Outer Banks. It is picturesque on its own, and the surrounding wetlands and forests add another strong birding stop.

A wooden boardwalk leads to an observation platform above a broad marsh. Below, American Black Ducks and Northern Pintail Ducks moved through the water, with Tundra Swans floating farther away.

On the lighthouse grounds, winter songbirds collect among the pines and underbrush. After a few pishing calls, Yellow-rumped Warblers came forward, briefly pausing their berry picking long enough for us to see them.

Warm Up with Hatteras Clam Chowder

By lunchtime, a warm bowl of Hatteras Clam Chowder sounded right, so we stopped at Outer Banks Brewing Station in Kill Devil Hills. This local favorite came loaded with minced clams in a rich vegetable broth. We also tried several beers brewed onsite.

For fresh seafood in an energetic setting, Blue Water Grill and Raw Bar is another option. The restaurant is convenient to Hatteras Island and looks out over Pirates Cove Marina. Fresh fish tacos and the Outer Banks’ famously fresh shrimp are worth making time for.

Jennette's Pier

Beyond waterfowl, shorebirds, and songbirds, the Outer Banks also offers excellent ocean birding. Later in the day, we met Jonathan again at Jennette's Pier. Owned by the North Carolina Aquarium, the pier includes scientific and educational exhibits.

For a nominal fee of $2 per person, visitors can walk out onto the longest pier in the Outer Banks. We watched waves cross the sandbars while scanning for seabirds. Brown Pelicans, Ring-billed Gulls, and Great Black-backed Gulls moved on the ocean air. Black Scoters and Northern Gannets lifted and dropped with the waves, and a pair of Red-throated Loons dove for food in the cold water.

Bring Your Checklist

Jonathan explained that the Outer Banks has birds that birders will not typically find inland, including American Avocets and Least Terns. During the winter bird count in Kitty Hawk, he recorded over 63 species. Whether you come from North Carolina or somewhere else, the area offers a strong chance to add something to your checklist.

The Outer Banks suits both beginners and dedicated birders. Its wild scenery creates an ideal setting for watching winter migration. Over the course of one day, we saw over forty species and over 9,000 birds. With accessibility, memorable food, and a beach-vacation atmosphere, it is a standout trip for bird lovers.

Categories: Outdoor Enthusiast

Author

Julie Suman

Julie Dee Suman (@seebyjuliedee) is a Maryland-based freelance travel writer and photographer. Her travels have taken her through over 43 countries across 5 continents. Along with covering the Mid-Atlantic Region, Julie enjoys destination travel centered on nature and wildlife experiences. She belongs to Travel Writers Café, International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association (IFWTWA) and TravMedia.

Julie is also a pharmaceutical scientist and co-editor of Respiratory Drug Delivery. Her research has appeared in peer-reviewed journals and trade magazines.